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Hei :shock:

jeg holder på med seven summits og skal til mt.everest 27.03.10.

I den forbindelse søker jeg sponsorer, men har ikke fått noen veldig positive tilbakemeldinger enda.

Snart løper jeg tom for ideer, så hadde satt veldig pris på forslag/tips, hvis noen her har hatt liknende problemstillinger før.

Les mer: www.fjellape.com

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Annonse

Jeg tror det er viktig at du har noe å tilby. Skal du ha en hjemmeside som blir mye profilert - skrive bok og blir det program på NRK ut av det er det jo lett å få sponsorer...

Er du blind eller døv eller mangler en fot er det sikkert også lett - eller at du går fordi du samler penger til en god sak. Det er så mange som gjør det samme nå så det er ikke så lett å komme ut fra mengden tror jeg.

Hadde jeg vært deg ville jeg heller prøvd å fått billig utstyr fra kjente produsenter - slik som Bergans, Helsport, Norrøna, Helly-Hansen osv. Selv om du ikke trenger det vil du kunne selge det videre med fortjeneste..

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  • 2 måneder senere...

Hei Thorbj81,

Har du fått noen sponsorer? Det er en ting som har slått meg etter å ha sett diverse program om Everest på TV og det er hvor mye søppel folk legger igjen. Bla. virker det som om folk bare slenger fra seg oksygenflaskene der de står når de skifter flaske. Du kan jo ta kontakt med noen naturvernorganisasjoner og si at du skal forsøke å være den første som bærer med deg søpla ned fra Mount Everest :) Mulig jeg er helt på jordet og at det er noen som rydder opp etter kameraene er slått av men det ser ikke slik ut.

mvh,

OS

PS: Siden vi er inne på Mount Everst. Leste i siste Rennebunytt at Kristian Kvikne har vært på toppen. Kan ikke huske å ha sett navnet hans i listen over Nordmenn på toppen. PDF-utgave av avisen her (se side 5 i RN 05-2010 i avsnittet "Initiativtaker til VM på ski"):

http://www.rennebunytt.no/index.php?c=39&kat=Utgivelser+i+pdf&p=2

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  • 2 uker senere...
  • 3 uker senere...
lykke til, climb safely! :D

er det noe sted hvor man kan følge med på ekspedisjonen din?

alex.

http://www.summitclimb.com/new/default.asp?linktype=r&nid=132

Siste oppdatering er 6 April, 2010:

Today began with a lazy, but huge breakfast. Then we checked email and hung out with friends from other teams and told stories, then had a huge delicious lunch of fresh vegetables, potatoes, salad, fresh meat, fresh fruit, cakes, tea, sprite, and coke.

After lunch our satphones and mobile phones began ringing wildly, and our Sherpa Pasang, who has been with us in basecamp and was out visiting other bc teams when he heard, stormed into camp with an announcement. Apparently there was an accident today on the face of the North Col. An avalanche swept down and may have torn out some ropes and may have killed one or more climbers. There may have been sherpas involved in the accident as well. Oh my god, this is horrible news. None of our team members were involved in the accident as all are at basecamp. We are not sure if any of our Sherpas were involved in the accident (God Forbid), but from what we heard, this unfortunate accident occurred to a team from a different company. Our sincere condolences to the team and its members and sherpas. We are very sorry to hear this and will be going up the mountain tomorrow and will tell you more as soon as we find out

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Takk for link, Enzo! Utrolig moro å følge slike ekspedisjoner, her er det bare å krysse fingre for et vellykka summit push! Synes det er vanvittig tøft å prøve seg på 7 summits. :)

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  • 4 uker senere...

25 May, 2010

Team 2 summits!

Team reports in live (click here to listen)

Hi, it’s the 25th of May and this is a dispatch for the Everest Tibet SummitClimb expedition.

We got a call at 1:18 p.m. David was on the summit with 5 members and 4 sherpas. It was extremely windy and sunny. The other members who have been here all went down today, so everybody seems like they are doing okay so far. We will keep you posted. Thank you very much. Bye, bye.

Names of summiteers:

David O'Brien - UK

John Kazanas - Australia

Ms. Elizabeth Tertil - Canada

Thorbjørn Lundsgaard - Norway

Peter Kinloch - UK

Lhakpa Sherpa Lama

Phurba Sherpa

Jangbu Sherpa (Senior)

Gyalje Sherpa

Jangbu Sherpa (Naked)

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Desverre så gikk det ikke bra for en av de i teamet til Torbjørn

This report is written in an attempt to explain the tragic loss of Peter Kinloch. We only spent 6 weeks with Peter, however, during that time we were a team climbing and resting together for many days, so were able to get to know one another well. Peter seemed to be a fit young Scotsman with an interesting life of experiences. He worked for the Police in Merseyside as a member of the civilian support staff dealing with incident pattern analysis and the extraction of management information from crime and incident databases, a specialist in which he held a PhD. Peter was shortly due to take up a new post in Belgium. From what we know of Peter, a great loss has occurred with his passing, and we are extremely sorry this has happened. We wish to send our deepest condolences to Peter's family, loved ones, and family.

Peter passed away shockingly and unexpectedly on the night of 26 May in the early morning hours, after 2:00 am, at 8600 meters, while climbing down from the summit of Mount Everest.

Peter's summit day started at 10:00 pm on 24 may at camp 3 at 8300 meters. After dressing and preparing his kit, food, and water for the summit, he and the rest of the team set off for the summit at 12:00 am in the early morning hours of 25 may.

Our team went upward and passed the obstacles one surmounts in the climb of Mount Everest from the Tibet side, including first step, mushroom rock, second step, third step, final snow slope, and dihedral. On the way up the final obstacles, Peter was in good spirits, moving steadily and sure-footedly together with our team, reaching the summit at around 1:00 pm on 25 May.

Summit team leader David Obrien radioed leader Dan Mazur, who was in camp 3 at 8300 metres, at 1:18 pm on 25 May to say the team was on the summit and everyone was in fine spirits and good health. David said it was very cold and windy and it had been a long and difficult climb.

On the summit Peter was elated, cheery and bubbly. Earlier during the expedition while dining with the team, he had said that climbing Everest would be the realization of a dream he had had for 25 years. While standing atop Everest, Peter took summit photos with the team. Conditions were sunny, but extremely cold, windy, with blowing snow and some cloud.

Descending from the summit, Peter surprisingly seemed to lose his

coordination and took a few slips and stumbles. These moments of clumsiness were interspersed with normal walking. Finally, reaching the top of the second step at approximately 2pm, he asked leader David Obrien, if David would show Peter how to descend the ladders. Peter told David that he (Peter) was having difficulties seeing, then finally that he couldn't see anything at all and was blind.

Peter seemed unsurprised about his blindness and explained to David that the blindness had happened before, although never in mountain conditions. Peter was perfectly coherent at this time and calmly explained that the condition was not snow blindness as he had no pain and he recognized the blindness from a previous episode.

In camp 3, several of the team's sherpas had descended earlier in the day with other members. 3 sherpas were sent up to assist over a period of several hours: Jangbu (Junior) was sent first, then later Phurba and Gyelje.

Over many hours of slow progress helping the now blind Peter, he, David and Jangbu reached the area of "Mushroom Rock" at 8600 metres at approximately six o'clock.

Here they stopped for a rest, David gave Peter food and opened Peter's backpack to take out some of Peter's water for him to drink. The temperature was very cold with high winds. Upon examination, Peter had initial signs of frost bite on two fingers. Peter was mentally coherent as he was able to recognize the symptoms via his sense of touch and show his frostbitten fingers to David. He requested that David remove his extra large mittens out of Peter's rucksack. Throughout this event, Peter's speech and thinking seemed to remain sharp and he did not evidence any signs of HACE. His blindness seemed to be unique, and unconnected to any other illness.

The other 2 sherpas arrived soon after to help with the rescue. The 3 sherpas and David did everything they could to get Peter beyond this point for the next 8 hours to no avail (tried administering dex, high amounts of oxygen, etcetera). Tragically, they were finally forced to come down. The rescue team did everything in their power to help Peter for about 12 hours coming dangerously close to needing their own rescue and not returning themselves.

David and the other 3 sherpas arrived back in camp 3 at 5:30 in the morning with hypothermia, exhaustion, and minor frostbite.

It is with our deepest regrets that we report the passing of Peter Kinloch, who was a bright spark in our team, and he is missed very much. At this very sad moment, we send our sincere condolences, thoughts and prayers, to his family, loved ones, friends, and colleagues.

Summitclimb

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Lite hyggelige nyheter. Ser ut til at det har vært en lang vei ned fra fjellet, og 3 netter på rad ute i kulden:

Hi, this is Dan calling in a dispatch for the 26th and 27th of May for the SummitClimb Everest Tibet team. I tried to make an earlier dispatch, but was interrupted by some kindly people coming near my tent trying to sell Cokes or something in the early morning hours. I’m calling in this dispatch from 6400 metre/21,000 foot advanced basecamp.

We had a very long summit day, which for some didn’t finish until even the early morning hours of the 26th of May. It was extremely difficult and challenging and even sad.

The team was exhausted in the morning. They slept in a bit up there in the high camp 3 at 8300 metres/27,200 feet. Then they packed up their things and tried to clean up the camp. The camp looked like an enourmous car park on an early Morning after a busy car-boot sale all Saturday and Sunday. So basically camp 3 was trashed.

We got some more oxygen for the members and the sherpas, who were very tired. We had to carry all of our things down the mountain. We left in the afternoon from camp 3 and hiked through every kind of weather you could imagine, except for rain of course. It was beautiful and sunny at times with amazing views while we skirted around the vast Himalayan ridges above camp 2 and traversed the big faces. Wind came in and a blizzard started blowing.

We made it down to camp 2, which was completely abandoned. All of our tents and equipment had been removed by our sherpas working busily down below. Camp 2 again looked like an enourmous car park after a car boot sale, completely trashed. In several instances we saw teams that had left their entire camp behind, including standing tents. I’ll have to say that some of our members were a bit astounded when they started calculating the value of some of this equipment that had been left up there because it was too difficult to carry down.

We kept ascending through camp 2. We picked up some more oxygen for those that needed it in camp 2, which our sherpas had kindly arranged to have ready for us. We carried on down climbing through camp 2 at 7800 metres/25,600 feet with all of us still using oxygen. It helps us feel less tired and do the work that we need to do up there, especially after a long period of time at altitude.

We climbed down through the night past camp 2. It was midnight and then it became the early morning hours of the 27th of May. We were still cruising down camp 2 which extends in a long ridge from about 7500 metres-7800 metres. It was getting dark and then completely dark. Then a huge blizzard came up and started ripping across the ridge. It became difficult to walk.

Fortunately and thankfully most of the rope had recently been replaced by the Tibetan climbing team. They had done a great job and it was really nice because the rope was getting really frayed before, so it was nice to see that brand new rope. In fact, we were sort of coming down this ridge and we hit a spot we weren’t quite familiar with. There were no tents and we were looking at this new climbing rope thinking, ‘are we on the right route because we don’t remember any climbing rope here.’ Fortunately the moon came up and the wind dropped just a little bit. We could see the moon rise over the Rongbuk mountains and Cholatse, looking out towards Pumori and Cho Oyu. We all agreed it was probably one of the most stunning views of our lives with nearly a full moon glowing across all of this.

We made it down to the North Col and camp 1 at 2:00 in the morning. It was so good to be down there in the early morning hours of the 27th. Kipa, our cook, was still awake on the North Col and he was amazing. He gave us endless cups of tea, rounds of water, juice, and even prepared a light dinner. We crawled into the tents feeling like we had really accomplished something, but extremely exhausted and still stunned from the last couple of days events, feeling very humble indeed.

We woke up on the morning of the 27th a little later in the morning and hung about in the tents. In fact, the sherpas had to chuck us out because they wanted to take the tents down, so at about 2:00 in the afternoon we made our final descent down the Cho La pass from the North Col face and ropes, together with our sherpas with incredibly overloaded backpacks. Our sherpas took such good care of us. They even wanted to carry our sleeping bags and all of our extra bits and pieces. Their backpacks were quite heavy, huge and it was very humbling to watch them. We tried to help them the whole way down.

We got back down at about 5:30 at night and reached advanced basecamp and had a massive incredibly good dinner prepared by our excellent cook Samdien. We crawled into bed and collapsed. That’s the end of the dispatch. Thank you for listening.

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  • 2 uker senere...

Turen var alt man kunne forvente av Mt.Everest. Vi hadde en fantastisk tur de to første månedene hvor alt gikk som planlagt. Desverre ble alt overskygget av Peter Kinlochs dødsfall. Det er godt å vite i etterkant at alt ble gjort for å redde han. Jeg var akkurat kommet ned til camp 3 på 8300 meters høyde etter å ha vært på toppen da jeg fikk høre at Peter var blitt blind ved second step.

Jeg kan ikke huske alt som skjedde de påfølgende timene fordi jag hadde gått uten oksygen fra second step på veien ned og alt ekstra oksygen ble sendt opp til Peter. Vi skulle egentlig ned til camp 2, men den var blåst vekk slik at vi måtte helt ned til north col på 7000meter, men det orket vi ikke.

Istedenfor ble vi liggende i telt uten oksygen hele natten inn og ut av en slags søvn. Senere den natta kom David, som var en av lederne på ekspedisjonen og som hadde gått rett bak Peter da han falt fra second step veltende inn i camp 3. Han hadde selv vært nær døden og var sammen med 4 sherpaer blitt tvunget til å la Peter være igjen etter en 12 timers redningsaksjon. David var så utmattet av mangel på oksygen og led nok høyst sannsynlig av haze.

Pga dette trodde han at han var på musikk festival pga alle teltene med lys i. Vi fikk han inn i telt til neste morgen. Da vi våknet d.26 mai fikk jeg tak i litt oksygen som jeg delte med David, og vi fikk etter en utrolig treig start på dagen kommet oss ned til north col rundt midnatt.

Peter var utrolig godt likt av alle medlemmer på turen og er dypt savnet. Ingen kunne forutse hva som skjedde og han hadde ikke hatt tilfeller av plutslig blindhet tidligere.

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Utrolig trist når folk mister livet! Men noget kunne tyde på at denne Peter kanskje ikke burde være på bjerget...:

"Peter seemed unsurprised about his blindness and explained to David that the blindness had happened before, although never in mountain conditions. Peter was perfectly coherent at this time and calmly explained that the condition was not snow blindness as he had no pain and he recognized the blindness from a previous episode."

http://www.everestnews.com/everest2010/summitclimbeverestnorth05292010.htm

Storfjellsturister/Fjellbestigningsturisme i 8000+moh er en stor diskussion med mange meninger og holdninger, og som sansynligvis aldrig slutter.

Uanset vil det altid være utrolig trist for familie og venner til de som omkommer i fjellet, hvad enten det er erfarne alpinister eller turister.

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  • 2 måneder senere...
Hei!:D

har lagt ut nytt referat på hjemmesiden min fra everest:

http://fjellape.com/index.php?page_id=5

Fantastisk! Hadde vært flott om du kunne kopiert ut teksten og bildene og lagt som en turrapport på våre sider - gjerne med linker til dine egne sider osv 8)

Høyst leseverdig - noe annet enn Jotunheimen og kystknauser :)

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Dramatisk lesning og mange flotte bilder på Picasa. Ikke tvil om at man befinner seg i et grenseland her, med ørsmå marginer mellom liv og død. Gratulerer med vellyket bestigning, til tross for de tragiske omstendighetene på ekspedisjonen. Visste ikke at det var 2 stk med Summitclimb som omkom.

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  • 5 måneder senere...

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